Looking out at the stark and desolate landscapes around Death Valley, it’s hard to believe that high in the Inyo Mountains hidden from view, is a site that the megalopolis of Los Angeles owes its livelihood to – Cerro Gordo – now nothing more than a ghost town.
The Road to Cerro Gordo
Our journey begins at the large, dirt pull-out of Hwy 136 and Cerro Gordo Road, just south of Keeler.
It was 11 am, and the truck already showed an outside temperature of 95ºf. As Steve lowered the tire pressure in preparation for the eight-plus miles of rocky, unmaintained road, I read the Cerro Gordo plaque attached to a large white bolder which gave a brief history of the town.
Putting Tonto into 4 wheel low, we stared the arduous drive up the mountain.
The first few miles were the usual unmaintained, washboard road, but as we climbed, the trail became narrower. Just wide enough for the truck. There were sheer drop-offs with no safety rails, and parts of the road had been washed out.
Torrents of water had carved huge ruts, and football-sized rocks were scattered here and there.
Several of the switchbacks are just wide enough to pull over and let an oncoming vehicle pass.
We passed remnants of mining equipment, wooden tipples and tailing piles. The scenery was spectacular. Stopping to take in the view, we peered out to see the now dry Owens Lake.
Once a haven for wildlife, full of lush vegetation and the livelihood for so many farms. towns and villages. The lake was drained to supply water for the ever-growing and greedy Los Angeles. It was one of the worst ecological disasters leaving behind a dust bowl the size of San Fransisco. This salt-flat is one of the largest sources of dust pollution in the US today.
cerro gordo ghost town
At around 8,400 feet in elevation, the air is thinner. We were expecting it to be a lot cooler, but the beads of perspiration still trickled down our faces.
At first glimpse, there isn’t a lot left of Cerro Gordo, and unfortunately, a recent fire claimed three more of the ghost towns historic buildings.
That was our main reason for the visit – to help with the clean-up.
Brent Underwood was there to meet us. He and his business partner, Jon Bier bought the town lock stock and barrel for $1.4 million in 2018.
They are both passionate about the history of Cerro Gordo and have plans to tastefully restore and bring the ghost town back to life.
the devastating fire of june 2020
In the early hours of June 15th, 2020, tragedy struck. In an eerie twist of fate, precisely 149 years to the day the American Hotel opened, it caught fire and burnt to the ground. The cause; an old electric wire combined with 100-year-old newspapers which had been stuffed in the walls for insulation.
The building never had a chance and went up like a tinder-box.
A bloodstain on the floor and a bullet hole in the wall marked the place of death when a card game went awry over a century ago. A myriad of authentic antiques that filled the space now lay charred, buried and unrecognisable in layers of ash.
The fire spread next door to the once home of murderer William Crapo, who took the life of the postmaster in December 1889.
The last victim of the June 15th fire was the ice house.
Saving the town
If it wasn’t for the quick thinking of Brent, the caretaker Robert and Mother Nature, the whole town would have gone up in flames. Fortunately, the wind was blowing down the canyon road away from the other buildings, which was unusual. Fate was looking down on Brent and Robert, and neither were injured.
While waiting for emergency vehicles, they managed to move Roberts’ truck so the full tank of gas wouldn’t explode. And pouring every ounce of bottled water they could find on surrounding vegetation to keep the flames away from the other buildings. You see, there is no water supply at Cerro Gordo, not since Lake Owens was drained. All water has to be brought up in containers.
Fire engines and emergency vehicles from the surrounding counties converged onto the mountain hamlet. The brave men and women spent the next 15 hours or so extinguishing the flames and embers, making the town and the mountain, safe.
It’s not just the buildings that are lost, it’s the memories, the history and their reputations in the Old West.
off to explore
On arrival, Brent suggested we get the feel of the place and gave us ideas on where to explore.
Walking down the old road, which continues into Death Valley, our first stop was Chinatown.
Chinatown
Only one cabin remains fully intact, sitting in a ravine surrounded by a rock face and several tailing piles.
Stepping onto the porch, we tried the door. As it creaked open, we found ourselves looking into a single room. It appeared as though the owner would return at any moment.
A potbelly stove was in one corner, a table and three chairs in the other and an alcove just large enough for a single bed was at the back.
Windows are on either side, allowing the light to shine through both in the morning and evening.
Artefacts are positioned, making the cabin warm and welcoming.
Further along the road, are the ruins of what appeared to be an old smelter.
I discovered later that this was an ore roasting furnace built c1871. It was never fired, being out of date by the time it was finished. We found a tunnel at the rear which is, in fact, the chimney.
Although this area was also known as “Newtown” (named for the Newtown Mine which is across the valley) the history of Cerro Gordo’s Chinatown is somewhat of a mystery. I wasn’t able to find out anything about its inhabitants during the mining era.
Secrets of the Mountain
We did discover some old ruins high up in the mountain—single-room rock cabins next to mine shafts. There was no trail to get to them, and we found ourselves clambering up steep ridges, precariously manoeuvring over and around prickly vegetation—several times ending up on our backsides, as the loose stones gave way to our steps.
There is one “house” which is part of what appeared to be a cave. An old wooden door is still in operation. But to get to it, we would have had to balance on a narrow ledge. Below there was a 30ft drop into a mine.
We like exploring, although on this occasion we felt it would have been irresponsible.
The EARLY HISTORy of Cerro Gordo
In early years Mexicans scrambled around seeking their wealth in silver. They came upon this area and named it, Cerro Gordo, which translates to Fat Hill.
Indians didn’t take well to their land being trespassed upon and ended up killing three of the five first prospectors. The remaining two were kidnapped but released under the promise that they would never return.
After Fort Independence was established in 1862, the Mexicans did return. In 1865, Pablo Flores struck silver near Buena Vista Peak.
With news spreading fast, Victor Beaudry and Mortimer Belshaw, local businessmen started buying up claims in 1869, taking over the whole 337 acres in the Inyo Mountains. That same year they would be the most significant silver and lead producer in California. The quality of the silver ore produced was high.
Belshaw also built the toll road named Yellow Grade Road. By charging tolls, he was able to control the silver shipments. He also owned several mines and the general store. His 1876 house still remains with its 156 bullet holes and is currently the place where Brent calls “home”.
By the early 1870s, two smelters were built in the town and a third on Owens Lake. The silver was taken by 20-mule-team or shipped by steamboat “Molly Stevens” on the Owens Lake (now dry) to a small pueblo called Los Angeles. This cut down over 40 miles of road.
HICCUP ALONG THE WAY
The Union Mine and buildings were wiped out by a fire in 1877 which left the mining operation in debt. As is the case with most prospectors, they forged ahead and kept mining.
This strategy worked. Silver, lead and zinc were mined for the next 50 or so years. By 1900 it is believed that around $17 million in ore was mined, which is close to $50 million today.
WHAT USED TO BE
Estimations vary from 1,500 – 4,000 residence depending on which sources you read. But Cerro Gordo once had 500 structures including 100 outhouses, 7 saloons, 5 hotels, 3 brothels, a general store, and an assay office. The town never had a church, school or jail during its heyday.
With no law enforcement, there was at least one murder a week. It is rumoured that miners slept surrounded in sandbags to protect them from flying bullets. Even the doctor left town!
By 1912, 1,000 tonnes of zinc ore was being shipped daily, making Cerro Gordo the largest producer in the US.
As a result, a new tramway was built in 1915 to send the ore to Keeler, which itself was a thriving town. Today though, Keeler has the inhabitance of about 30 since the Los Angeles Aqueduct project drained Lake Owens, its primary source of industry.
Power was installed in Cerro Gordo in 1916, before that, the whole town ran on steam.
By 1938, the mines were depleted and water supplies used. The Union Mine closed, and it became a ghost town (although some mining continued up until 1957.)
What Remains Today
There are about 20 buildings that still stand today, including the cabin of miner William Hunter, now the residence of former high school teacher and caretaker Robert Desmarais.
Cars, trucks and mining equipment remain, rusted, worn and in a state of arrested decay.
There are several buildings, scattered on the hillside, many of which will be authentically restored for future generations to explore.
The graveyard sits atop of the hill, where it is believed that several hundred bodies have been laid to rest. Unfortunately, due to vandals and theft, only two gravestones remain. One of those is of the former owner, Jody Stewart Patterson who died in 2001.
The Trail
We left Chinatown and retraced our steps until we reached another trail. This would lead us to the Hoist House.
Although by now, it was mid-afternoon, the sun still scorched down on us. The thinner atmosphere and elevation made us huff and puff, so we stopped often to take a drink and admire the views.
On the way, we noticed two doors adjacent to each other, built into the mountain. One was wedged open, enabling us to peer inside.
A large stone room had been carved out, about 15ft deep and 20ft wide—a dynamite storage room. The second door was of heavy metal and bolted shut.
The Union Mine Hoist House
Continuing up the hill to the Hoist House, we came across hundreds of artefacts, memorabilia, and items which had also been salvaged from the fire.
Built in 1877, this large building houses the original hoist used to raise and lower miners and ore.
The elevator shaft descends over 1,000 feet with tunnels branching off every 100ft or so. Rumour is that there are more than 30 miles of mining tunnels throughout Cerro Gordo.
On approaching the shaft, the temperature dropped considerably. The coolness against my skin was refreshing, and I stood there for a few moments.
Steven noticed a big grey metal box on the side. On the front, the words read “Human Blood, Handle With Care” in large red lettering.
We mooched around some more looking at all the machinery. Peering in boxes filled with tools and other remnants. We could have spent several hours in this building alone, there was so much to see.
Leaving the Hoist House, we meandered back down into the main town to look at the other buildings.
Assay Office
The remains of Lol’s Palace of Pleasure is a one-room brothel, which has seen better days. This sits next to the Assay Building, which houses a host of rocks and mining equipment
We spent about ten minutes inside snapping away and viewing the objects. A potbelly stove sits in the centre of the room, adding a focal point.
An old manual typewriter sits on a desk at one end of the room. Bottles of potions, jars, core samples and a host of other collectables are on display.
There is even a “Miners First Aid Kit” in a metal tin hanging on the wall.
Some of the items are for sale, and the proceeds go towards the upkeep and maintenance of the town.
The General Store
The General Store and adjoining butchers shop now house the museum.
Old shotguns, beer bottles, miners helmets and a host of other remnants are tastefully on display in the original shelves and in glass-covered counters. The items found throughout the town and in mines, now have a new home for all to enjoy.
The Cook’s Cabin
Just behind the Belshaw House is another small wooden cabin which was home to Belshaw’s private cook.
Although in pretty good shape, it still needs some work before Brent takes up residence. Being one-bedroom, and with a covered porch, it makes more sense for him to live here, leaving the Belshaw House either to eventually rent out or be one of the properties on the “Ghost Town Tour”. (Nothing is final, and the plans may change.)
The Gordon House
Initially built sometime between 1904 and 1916 (dates vary) for Mr Gordon who brought zinc to Cerro Gordo. This beautiful house boasts four bedrooms, (two of which are located downstairs) and two full bathrooms. There are also several secret rooms, one of which is accessed by a low, hidden doorway in the back of the walk-in wardrobe.
It is also known as “The Mansion” being the largest residential property on the hill.
Church
The Church which was built in the 1990s, and made to look authentic. The original building was a garage. The metal sides, tower and stain glass window, have been added.
Inside it is set up as a movie theatre. Eventually, the “boys” would like to show films here to their guests.
Bunkhouse
Then there is the Bunkhouse which was built in 1904. It has a kitchen and seating area in addition to several bedrooms coming off a long corridor.
This is a great building which is currently being renovated. During our visit, the floors were being sanded, and the walls painted. The door at the back opens to a trail taking you to one of the many outhouses.
We used the Bunkhouse to eat our lunch to get out of the mid-day sun. I was amazed at how much cooler it was inside.
Each morning we would walk through to get to the loo. (Brent kindly offered us it’s full use, but Tonto was already equipt to sleep in.) And each time we said “Good Morning” to the ghostly inhabitants who remain, although we had no reply.
It was, in fact, in the Bunkhouse that Brent had his first paranormal experience, but I’ll let him tell you all about it!
Beaudry’s Smelter
The large stone chimney of Beaudry’s smelter looms near the Bunkhouse. Tumbled rock retaining walls outline the once-profitable 1870s factory.
The Spirits Who Roam Cerro Gordo
With any town that has gone through many tragic events in its lifespan, there are accounts of ghostly activities. Here are some of the reported spirits that still reside in Cerro Gordo.
Giggles With Glee
Two young children were playing a game of hide-and-seek in the 1870s; unfortunately, this would be the last game they ever played.
Finding the perfect place to hide, a large steamer trunk in the bedroom of the Belshaw House, they unknowingly stepped into their coffin. On climbing in, the lid shut tightly, and the lock latched. Unable to escape, the pair suffocated.
The children can still be heard, laughing, giggling and running around, but screams and banging can also be heard.
Although, children who have stayed in the Belshaw residence swear they have seen a lady appear from the trunk. She is said to walk the house in her long flowing dress.
Poker Face
Apparitions of Alfonse Benoit had been seen in the poker room of the hotel. Shot during a card game in the 1870s, the bullet hole remained in the wall, and his blood stains the floorboards. (Or so the story goes.)
Although the hotel was destroyed in the latest fire, no one has told Alfonse. His spirit can still be seen at night, roaming the ashes of where the bar once stood.
Entombed For Eternity
The China Stope Mine is the tomb of thirty Chinese miners. Trying to forge a rough livelihood, and too eager for their own good, they didn’t shore up the tunnel. The mine collapsed – their bodies still remain, buried in the rubble over 200ft down. Rumbles, moans and groans echo through the shafts. Some say it’s just the wind, others believe it’s the miners’ spirits speaking.
Footsteps Of The Past
Curtains blow with no wind, doors open and close of their own accord, lights flicker on and off, and footsteps can be heard when no-one else is around in the Bunkhouse. Are these the miners making themselves known. Or could it be the mining mogul Louis D Gordon checking on everyone?
One female visitor, some years ago, laid out all her cosmetics on the dresser before retiring to bed. On awaking, the possessions had been re-arranged. The “Ghost Room” as it is now referred to, is located in the south-west corner of the building.
Would you spend the night?
our takeaway
Why is this town forgotten by so many, ravaged by time, nature, technology and man himself so important? It’s about remembering where you came from, how you got your start, paying homage to history and to those that made it possible. Without preserving our history, we fail to continue forward efficiently.
Cerro Gordo once rivalled Los Angeles in population. The riches produced from this mountain town helped turn that small pueblo into the sprawling metropolis it is today. Let that sink in.
You would have no basketball, baseball, football or hockey teams to root for.
No ultra-popular music, TV or movie stars to fall in love with—no Hollywood. No Disneyland or other theme parks to create lasting memories.
All made possible because of Cerro Gordo.
Please, reach out and see what you can do to support. You can donate supplies, your time or money to help make the road ahead a little easier.
A lot still needs to be done to reach the goals set in place, but you have to start somewhere. We both firmly believe in this endeavour. In our opinion, we should preserve our heritage, or eventually, we will lose ourselves.
Come to this mountain, let the Old West romance engulf you, breathe in the antiquity, stay to dance with its ghosts and bathe in the starlight. You’ll be glad you did.
our first vlog
Cerro Gordo in a nutshell
- Address: Cerro Gordo Road, Keeler
- Directions:
- From Ridgecrest – Take Hwy 395 to Olancha. Turn right onto the 190. At the T-junction turn left onto Hwy 136 towards Keeler. Just before reaching Keeler, turn right onto Cerro Gordo Road
- From Lonepine – Take Hwy 136 towards Keeler. After the town, Cerro Gordo Road is on the left.
- 8.5 miles of unmaintained, single-lane dirt road
- 4×4 high-clearance only
- The road is very narrow with switchbacks and sheer drop-offs (Don’t look down!) climbing to an elevation of approximately 8,500 feet
- All mines and buildings are on Private Property. To visit Cerro Gordo please call Robert the caretaker – 1-760-876-5030 to take a tour
- Remember – mines are extremely dangerous. Rockslides, cave-ins, bad air, unexploded dynamite are just a few of the hazards. STAY OUT. STAY ALIVE
- Please ensure you leave no trace – pack it in, pack it out. Respect this site so others can enjoy California’s history
- Respect ALL Keep Out, Posted, and No Trespassing signs – remember, this is Private Property and it is a privilege to be here
living in a ghost town
Here is a very moving YouTube video by Brent taken the day of the fire.
how can you help?
- Please help support this great cause and donate whatever you can spare to help re-build this historic site. Every penny helps. http://friendsofcerrogordo.org Or paste this link into your browser https://www.gofundme.com/f/cerro-gordo
- To keep up-to-date of the re-build progress of Cerro Gordo, subscribe to Brent’s YouTube channel – Ghost Town Living
Explore, have fun and put another Pin In The Atlas!
location map of Cerro Gordo ghost town
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