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Fossil Falls – A Hellish Fury Unleashed Created Remarkable Beauty

America· Inspirations

21 Apr

When travelling along Highway 395 towards Death Valley, we stopped at the dry lava flow of Fossil Falls. Having been here on previous road trips, we knew what to expect, but more exploring was needed. The last time we visited, Harvey had been with us, so we were limited as to what we were able to do.

Desert brush grows along side lava rocks at fossil falls with mountain range in background
the lava field

The massive lava bed is visible from the highway, and the turnoff, although signposted, is easy to miss.

The one-mile graded, unpaved road, is manageable for any vehicle to drive.

Size comparison of large lava boulders next to brick walkway leading to the pit toilet in the parking lot of fossil falls
The parking area and restroom

On arrival at the trailhead, we gathered our cameras and day pack, used the facilities and went to explore.

Information signs about fossil falls with lava rocks and mountains in the background
Information boards about Fossil Falls and its history

Hiking to the Dry Falls

From the parking area, you will see the trail. It is not a far or treacherous walk and very easy to follow.

Easy dirt trail to fossil falls lined with brush and lava rocks along each side heading off in the distance
The beginning of the trail

The landscape of jagged lava rocks spread out as far as the eye can see and conceal the old river channel quite well.

Trail to fossil falls continues through the rugged landscape which make the trail easy to see
The trail continues through the lava field
Tall cinder cone mountain in the background where all the lava originated at fossil falls
The cinder cone

Looming behind you on the trail is the large cinder cone where an aggregates company operates at the base.

It is an impressive sight to see and realise how much power it had to change the look of this landscape.

Trail leads to old river bed next to tall lava rock on the bank
A large orange arrow on the rock as a trail marker

The Falls 

The path eventually brings you to the edge of the old river bed, and the falls still evade detection. It’s not until you are right on them that you get a sense of the scale. Wow, what a view!

View of the falls looking down from the old river bed with mountains in the background
The river bed through the lava canyon

The power of the water churning against the lava rocks has polished them and created unique formations. Pockets formed in places where the water swirled around and left behind small pools. If you climb down, you see the mazelike channels carved out making for some spectacular scenery.

Deep channels have been carved by water into the lava rocks forming circular pockets that look like drill holes

There are many spots to walk around along the top to get different angles of the tiered falls. We took photos of both sides. This is one of those places where you wish you could see the water flowing; it must have been gorgeous.

Lava rock that forms the falls that has been worn to a smooth finish by the rushing water in the past
The top of the falls

What Caused Fossil Falls?

The dark lava called basalt is a result of many volcanic eruptions from the Coso Mountain range dating back to over 440,000 years. Lakes formed from melting glaciers, one of which was the ancient Owens Lake.

It was the Owens River that cascaded over the basalt, carving and smoothing it before tumbling into the river channel.

More patterns that the water has shaped in the rocks when it flowed over the edge to the ground below
You can see where the water and sand has eroded the lava

This once 40-ft high waterfall is now dry, and the landscape barren. But twelve thousand years ago, it was a different story. Lakes filled the many basins, and trees lined their shores. Birds flocked to the waters, and other animals depended on these oases for their survival.

With the abundance of plants and wildlife, it was an excellent place for the Native Americans to call home. Artefacts have been discovered dating 12,000 to 3,000 years ago.

More pockets of varying sizes that were carved into the rocks by the fast flowing water
The now “dry” falls

Why Are Fossil Falls Dry?

After the glaciers melted, over millenniums, the waters receded. In 1913, the water from the Owens River was diverted to “feed” the ever-growing population of Los Angeles. By 1926, the lake was dry, leaving a giant dust bowl causing the largest single source of dust pollution in the United States.

View from top looking down and out at the bottom of the old river channel
The bottom of the falls
Bureau of land management sign that says fossil falls campground at the beginning of the road

What Do We Think?

Fossil Falls is a great spot to stop and visit, and there is even a campsite. We have been here twice, and both times the parking lot was empty, and we didn’t see anyone camping.

There is a large pump at the side of the road, which is still in use and is the water supply for the campsite.

Man pressing down on the lever of an old manual hand water pump with mountains and lava rocks in the background
A manual hand pump – the only water source at the campground

We saw a signpost for Little Lake Lookout, so continued along the dirt road. The lake is pretty much dry, and there is an off-road section that continues. Due to the recent rains, the muddy road was only passable in a 4×4, so we decided to return to the highway.

Rain water collected into pools on the cracked dry desert landscape with small bunch of bushes and mountains in the background
Little Lake Lookout

We highly recommend a visit here. Bring your camera, some walking shoes and enjoy this very different attraction.

FOSSIL FALLS IN A NUTSHELL

  • Off of Highway 395 North of Little Lake, South of Coso Junction rest area – signposted 
  • Take Cinder Road – turn right onto Fossil Falls Access Road to the trailhead
  • One-mile unpaved road suitable for 2WD
  • A large dirt parking area
  • Toilet and picnic table
  • Large map and information board
  • A 0.2-mile hike to falls
  • No shade on the trail
  • Take plenty of water
  • Wear suitable footwear – the path is uneven with sharp rocks, and the rocks are slippery at the falls.
  • Keep children close – it is easy to fall
  • Not suitable for dogs
  • Day use – free
  • Campground about 11 sites – 4 suitable for RV’s $6 per night
  • Fire ring, grill, picnic table
  • Pit toilet
  • Hand-operated water pump

location map

Screen shot in google maps - Ariel view of location of fossil falls
Location Map
  • This is a great stop if you are driving to Death Valley.
EXPLORING DEATH VALLEY

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