In 1881 Aaron Winter discovered large quantities of borax on the marsh at what is now known as Furness Creek. After purchasing the holding in 1882, a pioneering businessman, W T Coleman from San Francisco built the Harmony Borax Works.
The turnoff is off of Highway 190 near Furnace Creek and signposted. From the parking area, we walked the paved trail reading the information plaques as we went.
Chinese workers gathered the cottonball (ore) from the salt flats and carried it to the refinery by wagon. Their daily pay was $1.30, which went towards food and lodging. Their homes were tents scattered around the flats.
Other employees lived nearby in what is now known as Furnace Creek Ranch.
We were unable to find out much about the adobe ruins, but believe that one of them housed the Superintendent.
Every day three tons of borax was processed, but during the summer, the desert heat was so intense that the water couldn’t be cooled enough, Coleman moved the operation to Tecopa.
Borax became known as “White Gold” and is still mined and used today in a variety of household products. Such as cleaning your carpets, cleaning your clothes, deterring pests, and preserving flowers to name a few.
Twenty Mule Team Wagon
After the borax was processed, wagons, designed by J W S Perry, (Coleman’s Superintendent), were used to transport the cottonball. Teams of eighteen mules and two horses pulled loads of up to 36 tons, 165 miles to the railroad.
It took ten days for the mules to haul these wheeled carts across the arid desert, and their image became legendary throughout America.
These mule trains were up to 100-ft long.
A Short Video of the 20 Mule Team Wagon
The business continued until 1889 when the Harmony Borax Works went bust.
Exploring Further Afield of the Harmony Borax Works
After spending about 20 minutes walking around the borax ruins, we decided to explore a little further afield.
Following a small trail into the flats and around the hill, we found a lovely area with small pools of water and jagged salt formations.
It was incredibly peaceful and beautiful. That is one of the many things with Death Valley that still amazes us. You never know what could be around the next corner.
Continuing around, we came across a wash, which means only one thing. “Desert Gold” (as Cali49 would say.) And it didn’t disappoint!
Along the wash, we found the usual remnants of the mining era. But we hit the jackpot once we clambered up the stony plateau. Hidden from the view of the road, we found the remains of an old car.
Carrying on, we found more pieces of the car and thousands of tin cans resting in the small valleys of the hillside.
We would like to have explored a little further but noticed the small sign saying closed to the public as a safety hazard.
As always, we take heed of signs, so didn’t venture any further and returned to Furnace Creek.
Our Takeaway Of Harmony Borax Works
We found the Harmony Borax Works fascinating. There are detailed information plaques with old photographs explaining the mining process.
If you do the interpretive trail, it would probably take about 20 minutes. If, like us, you venture out and explore it will obviously take much longer.
IN A NUTSHELL
- Location: Furnace Creek, Highway 190
- Signposted
- Paved road to the parking lot
- Continuing on the unmade road leads you into Mustard Canyon
- Historic Landmark built in 1882
- 0.4-mile interpretive loop trail on Tarmac
- Suitable for wheelchairs
- As always leave no trace. Pack it in – pack it out. Preserve this site for others to enjoy
LOCATION MAP
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