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La Conciergerie, Paris

Europe· Inspirations

20 Jan

As with most buildings in Paris, La Conciergerie is pleasing on the eyes. It can almost get lost with so many historical relics within a short span, but the history here is one not to forget.

La Conciergerie, Paris has been a Gothic Palace, and a Royal Residence, until the 14th century. Charles V appointed a steward (Concierge) and made part of the palace a Prison.

La Conciergerie, Paris is a Medieval building with two circular towers and wrought iron fencing along the side of the road

It became the most famous place of detention in France during the French Revolution, with the most renowned prisoner, Marie-Antoinette. This oldest prison in Paris currently used as law courts is still heavily guarded.

Armed guard standing at huge iron gates on cobbled entrance to La Conciergerie
Guard at the prison gate

entering the “Hall of Soldiers”

An unassuming doorway and down some steps leads you to one of the most visually beautiful rooms I’ve seen. The columns branch up into a steep arched roofline much like a cathedral.

This Gothic room began its life in 1302, and here we are with our twenty-first-century cameras and cell phones capturing images of this magnificent time capsule.

  • Stone steps leading down into a large room with ribbed vaulting
    Steps leading down into the “Salle des Gen d’Armes” – hall of soldiers
  • Stone pillars in large hall with spiral stone staircase
  • Stone spiral staircase once leading to the first floor which no longer exists
    Stone staircase

Soft, dappled light seeps through the windows, dancing across the face of ancient brickwork. A little further along, hanging on the wall, is a piece of black marble from the fourteenth century. It was once a table used for royal banquets in the great hall.

Part of the marble table hanging on the wall
Part of the marble table

the prison cells

Passing the restrooms and souvenir shop, we found ourselves in the Prisoners’ Corridor.

In 1989, three linked cells were recreated for the French Revolution bicentennial, to show the severe conditions of that time.

Here we see the desk of the Clerk, who was responsible for registering names of all inmates entering and leaving the prison, in the Registre d’Écrour. So it was known who was in the Conciergerie daily.

Another of the three rooms is the “Grooming room,” where the condemned prisoners would lose their hair to facilitate ease for the guillotine blade.

  • Corridor with stone floor and cells with wrought iron bars in La Conciergerie
    Row of cells
  • Small windowless cell with desk, chair, lantern and large book on table with shelving between two walls behind
    The Clerk’s register
  • Prison cell with wooden table, chair. On table is a pair of sheers, a lantern and a basket of human hair in the grooming room, La Conciergerie, Paris
    Grooming Room
  • Office of the concierge - the prison director with wooden table, two wooden chairs, gas lamp sits on table. Behind is a wooden decorative shelving with bottles and pots on
    Office of the concierge – the prison director

It is estimated that over 2,500 prisoners met their end in this fashion, including Marie Antoinette. (Some of her personal items are on display).

Artifacts thought to belong to Marie-Antoinette including a long cotton gown
Artefacts thought to belong to Marie-Antoinette

room of names

The room of names truly is quite a moving experience. It is a simple room, but the weight it carries is significant. Here is a snippet from an information plaque.

Four thousand names inscribed on the walls in the room of names in La Conciergerie, Paris
Room of names

“More n 4,000 people’s names are inscribed on these walls. They were tried by the Revolutionary Tribunal between 1793 and 1795. Whether they were executed, acquitted or sentenced to other sanctions, they all spent at least a few days in the Conciergerie.

Immediately after the Revolution, the lists of the victims of The Terror were cultivated like a kind of fashion. Keeping the memory of those who were guillotined was a way of honouring them as martyrs and resisting the Republic. Manufactured as weapons of combat against the Revolution, these lists only included the people who were sentenced to death.”

the chapel

The Chapel, located on the King’s medieval place of prayer, was used as a shared cell during the Revolution.

In 1816, a chapel, on the site of Marie-Antoinette’s cell, was erected. It is linked to the Conciergerie’s prison chapel by a small vestibule. The stained glass window emblazoned with the initials MA. 

slide show of the chapel – la conciergerie, Paris
  • Chapel of La Conciergerie with ribbed vaulting and arched windows
    Chapel
  • Large cross on alter in the chapel
  • Stain glass window with the "M A" for Marie-Antonette
    Stain glass window with the “M A” for Marie-Antonette on the site of her cell
  • Cenotaph on a pedestal in the chapel
    Cenotaph on a pedestal

the woman’s courtyard – La Conciergerie

The courtyard has barely changed since the French Revolution and is where the female prisoners spent most of the day. It was here the ladies would eat and wash their clothes.

Brick courtyard enclosed by stone building once housing prisoners. Centre is small fenced area with flowers at La Conciergerie
The Courtyard where female prisoners spend some of their days
Corner fountain within the walls of the building with a circular area for water to collect
The fountain where the female prisoners would wash their clothes

“Corner of the Twelve” is a smaller courtyard and part of the men’s prison. Railings surround it.

Old painting depicting life in the woman's courtyard. Two women are sitting to the right doing needlework, several others are walking.
Old painting depicting life in the courtyard

Two floors of dungeons enclose the courtyard, and there is writing on one of the stones with the date 1910.

The cells were divided into sections. On the ground floor were the basic cells which had straw on the floor for bedding. The more wealthy prisoners were housed on the first floor.

Writing on wall of women's courtyard. Date 1910
Writing on the wall of the women’s courtyard. Date 1910

The picture below is that of Marie-Antoinette being escorted by the guards for her last journey – to the guillotine.

Painting depicting Marie-Antoinette walking up the stone steps on her execution day surrounded by guards and other people
A short video about marie-antoinette’s last day

our takeaway

One thing that we both thought was how awful it must have been. Knowing your final days were lived in filth waiting to be beheaded. The humiliation of having your hair cut off. A guillotine that wasn’t sharp as you’d expect, taking several attempts to cut through the neck. I shudder just thinking about it!

in a nutshell

  • Address: 2 Boulevard du Palais, 75001 Paris
  • Opening hours: 9.30 am – 6 pm Mon-Sun.   Fee €9 
  • Metro: lines 1, 4, 7, 11 and 14 Bus: 21, 24, 27, 38, 58, 81, 85 and Balabus RER: lines B and C Follow the Seine banks to Ile de la Cité
  • Near Notre Damme, The Archeological Crypt, and walking distance from the Louvre
  • Average visiting time: 75 minutes
  • Free with Museum Pass and Paris Pass

location map of La Conciergerie, Paris

Street Location Map of La Conciergerie in Paris
La Conciergerie, Paris – Location Map
MORE SIGHTS IN PARIS

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