We rose around 6:30 to the sun peeking over the outlying hills. Today we were in no hurry. Sitting, enjoying our coffee and the early morning scenery at Alabama Hills, we had an easy-going, slow-moving morning. After washing up and packing away, we prepared to go on the Lone Pine to Talc City Road Trip.
Our first stop of the morning was to treat ourselves to coffee and a smoothie. Both were delish, and we recommend stopping by the Lone Star Bistro on Main Street.
With the tank filled, we started our journey at the Lone Pine visitors centre. Zeroing the trip miles, we began the road trip from Lone Pine to Talc City
the dolomite loop
Our first turn off of HWY 136 was Dolomite Loop. This road takes you past an old quarry and the original route to Virginia City over 290 miles away. That is a must-do for another time.
The quiet road continues towards the town of Dolomite, for which this stretch of tarmac is named. You can’t get close to it today, however, as it’s on private property owned by the quarry which is still in operation. Some of the original buildings intertwined with new structures are visible from the road.
At the junction to rejoin Highway 136, there is a historical marker on your right next to the stop sign. This explains about Dolomite marble mine, which is the largest in the US at seven miles long and 1,400 feet deep and is still in operation.
Saline Valley Salt Tramway
Getting back onto the 136 we pulled over about one mile later for the next roadside attraction. The Saline Valley Salt Tramway remains.
On top of the hill is one of the old towers that held the cables for the trams. The remaining foundations lay on the sandy ground just off the road.
Spotting some interesting items at the base of the mountain, we went to explore. There were remnants from the mining days scattered including two truck cabs—obviously the result of a horrendous flood.
SWANSEA ghost town
A few more miles along the road are the minimal remains of the town of Swansea.
The decent structures are inside a fenced-off private property. The few you can get to are a historical marker and two stone buildings in disrepair.
Just outside Swansea, we noticed another road heading off into the distance and a manmade stone wall, so we had to investigate.
On closer inspection, we believe it was an exploratory adit as it didn’t go in more than maybe 50 to 75 feet.
A REMINDER – Mines and shafts can be hazardous -false floors, cave-ins, bad air, unexploded dynamite, to name a few. Please be extremely cautious when exploring. Better still – Stay out, stay alive!
keeler – Half way from lone pine to talc city
The town of Keeler was next and did not disappoint. For such a small place, there is a lot of historical structures to see. The population of about 2,500 in its heyday has dwindled to 50 today.
Huge steamships, such as the Bessie Brady and the Mollie Stevens once docked at, what was then known as Cerro Gordo Landing. This was when Owens Lake was full of water, and Keeler was a bustling mining community.
Today the lake is dry, leaving many of the towns which depended on it, abandoned or almost deserted.
Train Depot c1883
We parked the car by a ghost sign painted on the ruins of, what was once I guess a bar or hotel.
This road used to be the railway line which was decommissioned in 1960. The tracks were removed one year later.
Directly opposite was the old train depot. Built in 1883 as part of the Carson and Colorado Railroad, Keeler being the end of the line. After closure, it was used as a residence for many years. Now, sadly, it is left to the elements.
Lakeside Swimming Pool and Beach Club
Further along the road, we discovered the Lakeside Swimming Pool and Beach Club, which was popular with the Hollywood elite after filming in the Alabama Hills.
The swimming pool and the Beach Camp date back to the mid-1920s.
Maybe an Abandoned School-house
We came across, either an old church or school-house which sits overgrown and surrounded by a high chain-link fence.
We weren’t able to find out anything about the history of this building, not even the date of construction.
Sierra Talc Mill
The Sierra Talc Mill is on private property, but we were able to walk into the grounds to snap a few photos.
From the early 1900s to 1942, this old mill processed talc from five different mines in California and Nevada.
Keeler Burial Ground
Getting back onto the main road, next to the Cerro Gordo turn-off, lies Keeler graveyard.
The earliest burial documented is that of miner Phillip Pirman dated 12 Dec 1884. Out of the dozens of burial sites, very few remain due to flash floods. In 1945 heavy rains washed away many of the graves and their markers. Over the years Keeler Cemetery has almost been forgotten with little to no maintenance.
On leaving Keeler, you can take the side trip up to Cerro Gordo, or continue on to the next and final destination.
the last leg – from lone pine to talc city
The last leg of this very easy Lone Pine to Talc City Road trip is… Yes, you guessed it – Talc City.
This is a loop road that takes you around some of the numerous talc mines that dot the hillsides and a few fragments leftover from their heyday. In fact, the first thing we found deep down in an old quarry was the rusted and busted up shell of a vehicle.
We also came across the largest congregation of old tin cans we have ever seen at a mine site.
This too is a wonderful loop road that is really easy and fun to do, plus the roads were in excellent shape.
This trip ends at the junction with highway 190 heading into Death Valley, and yet again it’s decision time. Do you head back home, or has this little 36-mile road trip inspired you to find more out there?
our takeaway on Lone Pine to Talc City road trip
One item on this trip that we missed was a stop and see some petroglyphs. Due to a technical hiccup, we weren’t able to access the notes that we had set aside to find them. Oh well, it’s good to keep some mysteries out there.
Keeler was the highlight of the trip for us. In a way, it reminded me of Bombay Beach out on the edge of the Salton Sea, because at one point it was the place to be. Now there is a sad, haunting vibe that hangs over the place.
lone pine to talc city in a nutshell
- The only part of this road trip which is on unpaved road is the Talc City loop. High clearance and 4×4 wouldn’t be necessary unless it has rained. In which case, I would avoid that part.
- Starting point – Interagency Visitor Centre HWY 395 & 136 Lone Pine – set milage to zero
- Head east on Hwy 136
- 3.4 miles turn left onto the Dolomite Loop (signposted)
- 5.6 miles is the quarry and the Virginia City turn-off
- 6.8 miles is Dolomite (viewed from the road)
- 8 miles is the historical marker and turn left to rejoin Hwy 136
- 9 miles – foundations of the Saline Valley Salt Tramway. (Left-hand side of the road.) Here you can stretch your legs and explore.
- 9.9 miles you arrive at Swansea ghost town.
- 13 miles you reach Keeler. Here you can explore to your heart’s content. There are no services in Keeler.
- Cerro Gordo Road is on the left-hand side of Hwy 136. If you do decide to make this side trip, you will need a high clearance vehicle and 4×4
- Keeler cemetery is next to the Cerro Gordo turn-off.
SECOND LEG OF THE JOURNEY
- Zero the milage again for the second part of your journey.
- 14.6 miles turn left then immediately right, onto Talc City Road. (This is an unmaintained road and not advised in wet weather)
- You will see mines dotted throughout the hillside.
- 17 miles keep straight (left) at the fork
- 17.5 miles keep right. The road does a 180-degree turn
- 17.9 miles is an abandoned site where the tin can pile is. We spent about 10 minutes exploring this area
- 18.3 (approx) is where talc was loaded onto trucks
- 18.6 miles keep left and continue until the road dead-ends at SR190.
- Opposite is the road to the ghost town of Darwin,
As Always….
- Please remember to respect all Posted and Private Property signs.
- Follow the Leave No Trace Policy – Pack it in, Pack it out. Take only photos, leave only footprints.
- Always watch for snakes and other bities. (We didn’t see any.)
- No cell service
- Be prepared – fill up with petrol/gas at Lone Pine, and take snacks and plenty of water with you as there are no services on this route.
I’d like to thank Cliff & Ilene Bandringa of Back Roads West. Their help made this blog possible.
location map
Explore, have fun and put another Pin In The Atlas!
See you at our next location.
- For more exciting places to explore in this area, click the links below.
Road Trip Essentials Check List
Water: This is probably the most critical item to place in any vehicle. Make sure you have plenty at all times.
Water Purifier: In the instance, you have gone through all your water, you may need to collect some to purify.
Snacks: Bring your favs.
Camera: You’re going to see some incredible things document it all with a camera.
Coolbox or Mini Fridge: Keeping your cold items cold, allows you to open up the menu when you are away for extended periods of time.
Jumper Cables: For those nights you dance in the headlight beams for a little too long.
Automotive Toolkit: With some necessary tools to help you out in any situation.
Spare Tire: Having a spare with a fully inflated tire is a must if you go offroad.
Tire Pump: Maybe your spare tire wasn’t as fully inflated as you initially thought, or perhaps you let the air out of your tires for better traction.
Hire Car: If you’ve planned your road trip in a rental car, check to see if that company still covers you if you go off-roading.
Folding Shovel: You never know when roads may require you to do some digging. Or if your way out in the wilderness and there are no bathrooms.
Extra Clothes: This should be a no brainer, but also bring clothes for any situation. Weather can change quickly.
Bedding: This depends on where you plan to catch some zzz’s. If it’s in a tent, have a sleeping bag. If it’s in your vehicle, adjust accordingly to how much space you have and how warm or cold it is.
Safety: This topic will mean different things for different people. We have a few items we carry in case we run into some unsavoury character or vicious wild animal and its a life or death situation.
First Aid Kit: Scrapes and cuts can happen in your own home so you should have a kit ready for going outside.
Sense of Adventure: Apart from water and being sensible, I think this is one of the essential aspects. Have an open mind, enjoy seeing the unknown, expand your world and have a damn good time doing it!
Camping Stove: Especially if it is cold out, there is nothing better than a nice hot, hearty meal to warm you up.
Propane Bottles: Make sure you bring enough propane, so you’re always ready for an improvised cup of tea or meal.
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