Lummis Home

Just off the Arroyo Secco Parkway, which became the new alignment of Route 66 in 1940, we saw a sign for the Lummis Home. It hadn’t been on our list of things to visit, and we knew nothing about the place. We decided to investigate, and were so pleased we did.

Woman in floral sundress and hat stands inside the rock post and wrought iron gates to the Lummis Home with large trees all around

Once inside the gates, you begin to feel as if you have left the bustling city altogether. The vegetation and trees culminate in a way that draws you into a different state of mind. The pace slows to a leisurely stroll, and you enjoy the scene with more fulfilment. Behind the low lying branches is another surprise.

The structure of El Alisal, which means Place of the Sycamore Trees, rises from the earth in a very natural way. It settles comfortably into the landscape around it, probably because that’s where its materials came from. Once you stand in front of it, the scope of work that went into its construction becomes apparent.

Stone building can barely be seen behind the trees and bushes of the Lummis Home grounds

Then you notice two peculiar second level doorways that lend to a continuation that wasn’t completed — all the brainchild of one Mr Charles Fletcher Lummis who was quite a character in his own right.

Two story stone house with irregular shaped windows and doorways with the second story doors leading to open air — The two doors on the second floor, and the support holes ready for a veranda to be installed.

Circular stone built room with small window in the middle on side of the main house — Notice the mortar stone which has been used for building

View of back courtyard with smaller stone buildings used as guest rooms and circular Lilly pond — The Lilly pond and the guest houses in the background

Some History About Charles Lummis

Charles Fletcher Lummis was born March 1, 1859, in Massachusetts. His mother passed away when he was only two years old. His father was a schoolmaster who raised and homeschooled him. When it was time for college, he enrolled at Harvard, so his father taught him well. On an interesting side note, Charles was a college schoolmate of Theodore Roosevelt.

While at Harvard he worked a summer job as a printer, and published Birch Bark Poems on thin pieces of birch bark, hence the name. This publication was his first, getting him recognition from Life Magazine and many established poets in that period. He sold his work by subscription to pay for college but eventually dropped out in his senior year.

Old black and white portrait photo of Charles Lummis — Charles Lummis – photo from KCET

Charles, now 25, had been working for several years as a reporter in Chillicothe, Ohio when he received a job offer for the L.A. Times. This was an excellent opportunity for a publicity stunt, so he decided to make the journey from Cincinnati to Los Angeles on foot. The 3,507-mile walk started in September 1884 and concluded 143 days later.

Too Good To Be True

Lummis was an eccentric, and a great storyteller. During his arduous walk, he maintained contact with his new employers, reporting on his experiences.

It later became clear that he fabricated many details of his life. His reports included encounters with wild cats, snowstorms in New Mexico’s mountains and extreme heat in the desert. A broken arm which he allegedly set himself, attempted robberies by people he met on the route, and an interview with outlaw Frank James, older brother of Jesse James.

Originally published as a series of weekly columns in the Los Angeles Daily Times, the account of his travels were revised into the book “Tramp Across the Continent“ in 1891-1892 while the author recovered from a severe illness.

The Birth Of El Alisal

In May 1894, with his second wife Eve, pregnant with their second child, Lummis found the perfect spot to build his Highland Park home, located on the edge of Arroyo Secco on a plot of three acres.

Charles, Eve and 2-year-old Amado moved into a rough cabin in 1896 when he began construction of his 4,000 – square-foot miniature stone castle with a tower. Taking him nearly 13 years to build by hand, with stones he pulled out of the river, and old railroad telegraph poles used as ceiling support beams. The floors are of concrete, making them easier to wash after the many parties he held there.

Old photo of young boy, aged 7, with very long hair and fringe. Lummis' son who died of pneumonia — Photo of Lummis’ son Amado Bandelier Lummis who died of pneumonia aged 7

Unfortunately, his son Amado wouldn’t see the finished product as he passed away of pneumonia on Christmas Day in 1900. Lummis placed his ashes in a wall on the back porch.

Back yard view of two story house with two more doorways leading to nowhere on second level — The back of the Lummis home

The Visit

One thing about historic places like this is it takes time to let the fact sink in that this was someones home. Lummis built it, lived here, raised a family here and started a lot of important work while inside these very walls. His design for El Alisal was part medieval castle mixed in with California Rancho and Native American Pueblo.

The interior of the home displays pictures and objects which Lummis collected throughout his travels; his artist friends created others.

On some windows on the front of the building are images, which I thought were fascinating.

Transparent photos border the perimeter of a large window at Lummis Home — Transparency photos etched into the glass border

Photo of Native American child holding basket. Etched in the glass of the window — Photo of a Native American child

Photograph of city hall etched in the window — Photograph of City Hall

Interior of the Lummis Home

The little personal touches around the fireplaces, the heavily worn staircase and the less than perfect finishes in El Alisal are what make this place unique.

Dining room of Lummis Home wooden table with linen table cloth and 4 wooden straight back chairs — Dining room

Early 1900s writing desk with manual typewriter and chair once a bedroom, also used as an office at Lummis Home — Once a bedroom, also used as an office

Wooden shelved cabinet housing many books and photos with two wooden arm chairs — The entertainment room

Kitchen of the Lummis Home. c1930 with double sink and single upper cabinet next to window, more modern appliances like a fridge have been installed — Kitchen with more modern accessories

In Conclution

Lummis achieved a lot during his life- from an author, publishing 20 books, journalist, photographer, preservationist, historian and librarian – according to the Los Angeles Times. He was the founder of L.A.’s first museum, The Southwest Museum of American Indian.

It is said, when he moved to New Mexico to recover from his paralysis, this is where his deep appreciation and fondness of Native American culture began. He fought with his government about Indian education and later founded the Sequoya League.

He passed away in 1928 at the age of 69 and was laid to rest with his son Amado in the wall of El Alisal behind the Plaque on the back porch.

Plaque marking the remains of Charles Lummis and his son Amado

charles lummis – short documentary

A short documentary about Charles Lummis

Our Takeaway

Both of us enjoyed visiting the Lummis Home. We spent an hour or so in the house looking around and reading the information sheets.

The docent is exceptionally knowledgeable and passionate about the site answering all our questions. He told us stories about Lummis and pointed out things in the house that would have gone unnoticed.

We spent an additional thirty minutes wandering the gardens.

This historical landmark is most definitely worth a visit. If you are driving Route 66 or spending time in LA, then take the time to stop by.

Lummis home – in a nutshell

Address: 200 E.Avenue 43, LA 90031
Hours: Saturday & Sunday – 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Free tour of castle house and gardens
Free parking along the street
Expect to spend 1 hour plus
Historical Landmark displaying artefacts and tales of the adventures of Lummis
The account of his travels was revised into the book “Tramp Across the Continent“