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Lupton to Albuquerque, New Mexico – Route 66

America· Road Trips

9 Nov

We bid farewell to Arizona and headed for Correo on this stretch from Lupton to Albuquerque, New Mexico on Route 66. Entering The Land of Enchantment, there are some remains of adverts painted on the rocks at Devil’s Cliff, Manuelito.

Lupton to Albuquerque Ghost adverts painted on the rocks
Ghost adverts painted on the rocks

gallup

Gallup is the first major town in New Mexico, and we parked the van on Main and Coal Street to walk the few blocks of Historic Down Town.  Walking around here reminded me a little of San Fransisco because the streets follow the landscape and change in elevation.

Lupton to Albuquerque city of Gallup welcome sign
Welcome to Gallup Sign
Lupton to Albuquerque empty streets in downtown
The streets of Gallup. A mini version of San Francisco Streets

Now Gallup is considered the Indian Capital of the world, and one can see why. Just about every shop window is full of Native jewellery, pottery, rugs, moccasins and curios. 

slideshow
  • Lupton to Albuquerque Painted mural on side of building
    One of the many Indian shops
  • Lupton to Albuquerque painted mural on side of building
    Native American Shop
  • Lupton to Albuquerque woman standing on empty sidewalk
    Gallup Main Street

However, there are still some icons of Route 66 here. 

icons slide show
  • Lupton to Albuquerque Rex Museum neon sign on building
    Rex Museum Neon Sign (Open 8 am – 3.30 pm Mon to Fri) used to be an old brothal
  • Lupton to Albuquerque stucco building with murals painted on the side of Rex museum
    Rex Museum
  • Lupton to Albuquerque historic theatre front Art Deco style
    El Morrow Theatre (on Coal Ave) build 1928
  • Lupton to Albuquerque Mexican cafe neon sign on building
    Neat neon sign
  • Lupton to Albuquerque Gallup Muffler Man dressed as a cowboy
    Gallup Muffler Man
  • Lupton to Albuquerque restaurant sign with raring horse statue
    Ranch Kitchen Steak House sign. note to pots and pans which are hanging. It was built in 1984 at the end of the R66 ere
  • Lupton to Albuquerque Colonial Motel neon sign on top of building
    Colonial Motel neon sign
  • Lupton to Albuquerque Downtown Parking neon sign  with arrow on side of building
    Even the downtown neon parking sign is from the same era

El Rancho Hotel

Getting back into the van we drove to the other end of town. Here we found the famous El Rancho Hotel, which opened in 1937 and has links to Hollywood. 

Lupton to Albuquerque Gallup El Rancho hotel with 3 Main Entrance doors, upstairs balcony
El Rancho Hotel front entrance
Lupton to Albuquerque Gallup El Rancho Hotel flagstoned courtyard, wooden seats and tables and a stone wishing well
The beautiful courtyard of the El Rancho

With stars, the likes of Doris Day, Spencer Tracy, Katherine Hepburn, Humphrey Bogart, Kirk Douglas, Errol Flynn, John Wayne,  Ronald Reagan, and a host of others that were filming Westerns in the area.  Each of the hotel rooms is named after the movie star who stayed in it.

Lupton to Albuquerque inside El Rodeo Doris Day room 109
El Rancho Hotel room 109 is where Doris Day stayed

Films shot in and around Gallup include the 1930’s edition of Billy the Kid. The Sea of Grass (1947). Four Faces West (1948). Only the Valiant and Ace in the Hole (1951). Escape from Fort Bravo (1953). And The Hallelujah Trail (1965), to name a few.

Once the Interstate opened, this magnificent building fell into disrepair. Until, in the 1980s, Armand Ortega, a businessman, purchased the property and restored it to its former glory.

EL RANCHO Slide show
  • Lupton to Albuquerque El Rancho Hotel lobby with stone fireplace, seating and sweeping staircase to upstairs landing and hotel rooms
    Main lobby of El Rancho
  • Lupton to Albuquerque El Rancho Hotel lobby with stone fireplace, Native American rugs on wooden floor
    Looking into the lobby
  • Lupton to Albuquerque El Rancho Hotel lobby with leathers seats, side tables, Native American rug on wooden floor
    Looking down into the main lobby from the second floor landing
  • Lupton to Albuquerque El Rancho front desk and coffee bar
    El Rancho coffee bar
  • Lupton to Albuquerque El Rancho Lobby wooden window frame
    El Rancho
  • Lupton to Albuquerque El Rancho Lobby original lift wrought iron metal sliding door
    The old lift – still working
  • Lupton to Albuquerque 1930s designed womens restroom El Rancho
    The ladies loos

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE 

The Continental Divide is, in fact, a watershed, where waters can either flow east to the Atlantic or west into the Pacific and have remained inhabited for over 11,000 years. If you fancy hiking it, the Continental Divide Trail starts in Mexico, follows the Divide across the US, then on into Canada. Continuing as the “Great Divide” Trail and ending at Kakwa Lake, British Columbia. A total of 3,800 miles. Good luck with that!!!

Woman and man standing either side of continental divide sign
Continental Divide
Two large poles painted to look like rockets
Two makeshift rockets by the Continental Divide sign

There are several more signs and buildings along the way. Opposite from the Continental Divide there is an old Whiting Brothers Motel sign.

Thoreau to Prewitt

This section of Route 66 has Roy T. Herman’s Garage and Service Station. One of the most former remaining gas stations along Route 66 in New Mexico. (Built 1935, and has been relocated twice). And the Tomahawk Bar built 1947, which serves as a trading post as well as a bar. 

  • Dilapidated Whiting Brothers motel sign on side of road
    Old Whiting Brothers motel sign
  • Abandoned Hermans Garage and service station with old truck
    Hermans Garage
  • Boarded up building with paintings on side which was once the Tomahawk Bar
    Tomahawk Bar

Then at Bluewater (which is almost a ghost town), we saw the old Bluewater Motel sign.

Bluewater motel old neon sign
Bluewater Motel old neon sign

grants

Grants was named the Carrot Capital of the US, and the town is quite pretty and clean.  They are making an effort to keep the town alive with the new, 2016, Route 66 drive-thru neon arch. Obviously a photo op! 

Van driving through large Route 66 Shield
Route 66 neon arch drive-thru – built 2016

Here are some more signs from the bygone era.

  • Dilapidated Roaring 20s neon sign
    The Roaring 20s neon sign
  • Exterior of The West Theatre - 1959
    The West Theatre – 1959
  • Grants Cafe neon sign
    Grants Cafe neon sign
  • Run down two story building in parking lot. Wayside Motel - once Grants Motor Lodge built 1945
    Wayside Motel – once Grants Motor Lodge built 1945
  • 1950s Sands Motel neon motel sign
    Sands Motel built in 1950 was good enough for Elvis. apparently he stayed in room 123 after his wedding.
  • Sands Motel and neon sign
    Sands Motel

grants underground mining museum

The underground mining museum had so many positive reviews we decided to take a look, and it did not disappoint.  A retired miner of 48 years, named Jack greeted us. He was friendly and helpful, telling us stories of what it was like to be a miner back in the day.  He even gave me a tumbled rock which sparkles with what looks like flakes of gold. 

  • To read more about the mine
GRANTS MINING MUSEUM

side trip – la ventana natural arch

Just off from Route 66, we drove to La Ventana Natural Arch, located in El Malpais National Conservation area. It’s about 17 miles to the parking lot, then a short easy hike to the arch which is New Mexico’s second-largest, and worth the detour.  You see the volcanic lava flow where the Indians used to hide. 

The Natural Arch is somewhere to come back to and explore more on another trip.

Natural rock formation that looks like an arch
La Ventana Natural Arch

While here we did stop at the Sandstone Bluffs to get some breathtaking photos of the lava flows from above.  There never seems to be a shortage of fantastic diversity in Nature’s art gallery. 

scenic images – slide show
  • Sandstone bluffs over lava bed
    Sandstone buffs and lava fields
  • Trees growing from small dried up pool
  • Geological survey marker from 1949
    1949 Geological Survey Bench Mark
  • Sandstone bluffs with lava fields in background
    Sandstone and lava
  • Hardened lava field
    Hardened Lava flow

back on the mother road – Lupton to Albuquerque

For now, this was all we did here as the Mother Road was calling. 

The original R66 bypassed the small town of McCartys,  but at exit 96 there is an old Whiting Bros Service Station.

Old Whiting Brothers signage on side of the road
Old Whiting Brothers sign

San Fidel, another small town en route where we found another early Whiting Brothers sign, cafe remains and the Acoma Curio Shop.

  •  Old whiting Bros sign
    Another Old whiting Bros sign
  • ramshackled service station
    Whiting Bros service station on Route 66 from LUPTON TO ALBUQUERQUE
  • Fading painted Crios ghost sign on side of building
    Crios ghost sign

Villa de Cubero Trading Post established in 1937, was a 10 unit tourist court. The area attracted many artists and eccentrics, including Ernest Hemingway, who stayed for several weeks. It was also a favoured filming location for many movies.

Villa de Cubero Trading Post slide show
  • Service station still in use
    Villa De Cubero
  • Dilapidated single storey building once cabins
    Wonder where Ernest Hemmingway stayed?
  • Single storey building once serving as cabins

Budville Trading Company, established in 1928, closed its doors after being in operation for 66 years. The original owner “Bud” Rice was murdered in 1967 during a holdup, nicknaming the town Bloodville. Although his wife continued to run the service station and trading post with her second husband.  He too was also slain just a few feet away from the previous murder Not a very lucky lady!

The house next door is where the Rice family lived before Bud Rice’s brutal murder.

budville slide show
  • Budville Trading Company building no longer in use
    Budville Trading Company now closed
  • windmill in the grounds of the trading company
    This windmill stands in the grounds of the trading company
  • 1940s car rusting in backyard
  • single storey House with tin roof
    We believe that this was where Bud was murdered. It’s the only house near the trading company

Further down the road is the old King’s Cafe which we don’t appear to have any pictures of, however here are some other gems for you!

random relics slide show – from LUPTON TO ALBUQUERQUE
  • Abandoned building with old car
  • Abandoned garage building in overgrown landscape
  • Group of stone cabin ruins on side of the road
    Group of stone cabin ruins
  • Old stone ruins of one roomed cabin
    Saw these old stone ruins
  • Small Stone fireplace Inside of old cabin ruins

laguna

Laguna has the infamous Dead Man’s Curve drive on the original alignment of Route 66 and follows an ancient Native trail running between the red sandstone cliffs, and the San Jose River.

Here we saw a rock which looked like a camel – hence its name Turtle Rock, yeah go figure! Just a short distance is Owl Rock, a rock formation which resembles from just the right angle, yes you guessed it, a large boulder. With some imaginative stretch of the mind, I suppose you could see an owl or something. (So we’ve been informed!)

  • Roadway looking out to plains and low ridge hills
    Dead Mans Curve
  • Rock formation that looks like a camel
    Turtle Rock near Dead Mans Curve. Looks like a camel to me!
  • Rock formation that looks like a bird
    Owl Rock

Now, this is where things get interesting. At Correo (known as Suwanee) you can follow the old alignment of Route 66 south through Los Lunas. Or go to Albuquerque. We did both.

Lupton to Albuquerque via CORREO (option 1)

From Correo to Albuquerque there is only one real stop on the way at Rio Puerco. Here you can walk across the 1933 steel bridge now closed to motor vehicles.  Across from the bridge is the Enchanted Trails RV Park (formally the Hilltop Trading Post) and rent a vintage trailer for the night.

1933 steel truss bridge closed to motor vehicles with new road running beside it
Long straight road heading into a city with buildings and mountains in the distance
View of Albuquerque driving from the Rio Puerco Bridge

LUPTON TO ALBUQUERQUE VIA Los Lunas (option 2)

Being early in the day we decided to drive to Los Lunas and see if we could find the Mystery Stone on the Rio Puerco Valley side of Mystery Mountain. Also known as Los Lunas Decalogue Stone, the old sketching’s on the stone are supposed to represent the Ten Commandments. 

MYSTERY STONE

On arriving in the small town of Los Lunas just before the corner of Main Street and NM314 you’ll come across The Luna-Otero Mansion on the right-hand side of the road.

The Luna-Otero Mansion built 1881 in  Victorian Southern Colonial style
The Luna-Otero Mansion

Now a restaurant, this majestic building, constructed in 1881 in the Victorian Southern Colonial style was once home to the Tranquilino family. Throughout the decades, the mansion has passed through many hands. Now it is established as a fine dining restaurant in the 1970s.  

  • Old mansion house with large parking area in front
  • Old mansion back yard view now parking lot
  • Tables and chairs set up for dining inside the mansion

However, it was at this time that one of the houses former residents made herself known. Josefita Manderfield Otero who’s nickname was Pepe, had spent many years caring for her magnificent home and gardens. She appears not to approve of the changes and now haunts the property. Other apparitions have also revealed themselves to the current employees.

Both the options from Lupton to Albuquerque have fascinating roadside attractions. Although it is longer, we enjoyed going via Los Lunas and discovering the Mystery Stone.

  • Next instalment
ALBUQUERQUE TO SANTA ROSA NM – ROUTE 66
  • Previously
FLAGSTAFF TO LUPTON, AZ – ROUTE 66


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