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Manzanar – A Beautiful Place With A Sordid Past

America· Road Trips

4 Mar

Manzanar, meaning “Apple Orchard” in Spanish, was founded in 1910. Within a year, it had a population of approximately 200. Trees lined the streets, and meadows, corn and alfalfa fields surrounded the community. It was a pretty place with apple, peach, and pear orchards. A two-roomed schoolhouse, general store, a post office and even a town hall was built to accommodate the growing population. People were happy.

Photo of the original Manzanar town outside of their general store with townsfolk and children out front
Manzanar School c1921

In the 1920s, Los Angeles’s city began purchasing the land and water rights. Lake Owens was drained to supply water for the greedy city, and the land became barren. It wasn’t long before the residence started to relocate and the area became deserted.

Some rows of Orchards planted before Manzanar became a concentration camp that are still being tended to by the park service
Orchards

Why Was Manzanar Turned into a Camp?

During World War II, the US Army purchased the town, and in 1942 turned Manzanar into a concentration camp confining 10,000 Japanese Americans and Japanese immigrants. Most were incarcerated for up to three years.

The remains of the children's camp in Manzanar are next to the old orchards and all that is left are some simple foundations and rock outlines
The children’s camp

Businesses and homes were sold or lost. Possessions left behind, and families and friends were separated. Children were torn from their adopted caucasian parents and placed in an orphanage on site, even though most were born American citizens.

Eight guard towers manned by soldiers were erected, and search-lights were installed facing inwards. High, barbed-wire fences enclosed the one square mile camp.

An old guard tower that still stands outside along the road into Manzanar a reminder of the dark past of this area
One of eight guard towers

We pass an abandoned guard tower on the way in which once instilled absolute fear. The silence that now resides in this place is in stark contrast to its formal life. In a way, you almost feel as if you are disturbing the eerie stillness as you approach.

Some names of Manzanar detainees etched into the cement outside of the old fire station
Some names of detainees in the cement outside of the firehouse
One of Manzanar original fire trucks that did see action on the grounds now resides inside a garage alone with ladder intact on its roof
An old fire truck

The camp was self-sufficient with a school, a hospital and a post office. Accommodation was small, cramped and shoddily built with little to no privacy. Dust storms and extreme temperatures were a common occurrence.

Basketball courts just next to some of the Manzanar living quarters outlined with white painted rocks lining the boundaries
Basketball Courts

Old basketball courts where some semblance of normalcy could have been achieved deteriorate under the harsh sun today.

Old painting of Manzanar that captures what life would have looked like at its peak with housing and basketball courts at the base of Mount Whitney
This photo was taken from the information board

Five hundred of the detainees were put to work at the camouflage net factory to assist with the war effort.

White rocks lay in a rectangle along the dirt outlining the former foundations of a building with mountains looming in the background

Manzanar was just one of ten camps, and a total of 120,000 (of which 70,000 were US citizens) were deprived of their freedom.

Mess Hall

An old truck is poised outside the mess hall buildings with a large mountain range in the background shrouded in cloud cover
The mess hall and the foundation of the laundry room

The mess hall, a hub of activity and time for socialising, now only captures the sounds of wayward wind gusts.

Information board shows old photos of the detainees lining up to get a meal at the mess hall
Photo of some of the detainees outside of the mess hall with snow capped mountains in the background
An old photograph of the mess hall workers at Manzanar

Manzanar Camp Cemetery

A large white monument sits in the middle of a large dirt lot that used to be the cemetery for the camp

Over 150 people died during the camp’s occupancy. Fifteen were buried in the cemetery, of which only six graves remain. A lone monument remains to honour those who lost their lives at Manzanar.

Close up of origami flowers placed around the large monument that sits in the middle of the old cemetery where a few graves still reside

At the end of World War II, Manzanar closed. Its occupants were forced to leave, many with nowhere to go.

Most buildings were quickly torn down, and little remains of the “relocation” camp today.

It would be several decades before any would receive compensation for all that they lost. In 1988, $20,000 was paid to every surviving internee. But no amount of money could buy the freedom that had been unjustly taken from them.

Two stone guard shacks mark an old entrance to the internment camp with large mountains in the background
The two guard shacks at the historic main entrance

In 1992, Manzanar was designated a National Historic Site.

Large sign that reads Manzanar Camp Relocation Centre at one of the entrances to the park

Our Takeaway

The serene setting just off the 395 with the towering mountains differs so much from what took place here. It looks so peaceful, inviting, beautiful and memorable, but it was a nightmare for many.

On top of having done nothing wrong in the first place, can you imagine having everything taken from you? Being placed in a camp and forced to work for those who have incarcerated you? Then have that ripped away, leaving you with absolutely nothing and nowhere to go?

That stain, unfortunately, can’t be washed away from this place, leaving the feeling of uneasiness all around. You almost feel as though the lost souls stand silently, just out of reach and sight, watching your every step.

There is a small park where hopefully, those restless spirits can find some tranquillity.

A large stone placed upright with Japanese writing on its face marking the area to a tranquil park being built
Stone

manzanar camp – in a nutshell

  • Located along Highway 395, near Lone Pine – 200 miles north of Los Angeles
  • Free to drive around – 3.2-mile self-guided driving tour
  • Museum (free)
  • Nearby locations
    • Lone Pine to Talc City
    • Cerro Gordo Ghost Town
    • Fossil Falls

manzanar location map

Screen shot in google maps showing location of Manzanar Camp
Manzanar Camp Location Map
A short documentary by the National Parks Service

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