Named in honour of the 26th President, Theodore Roosevelt, this is the only national park in America named after a single person. Covering 70,446 acres / 110.072 square miles, it incorporates three units. The first and most popular is the South Unit.
Our First Stop
It was a hot, hot early June morning. We left Tonto in the carpark and walked through the visitor centre to explore the remaining building of the Chimney Butte Ranch.
An avid hunter, Roosevelt visited the Dakota Territory in 1883 in search of bison. Although out of his comfort zone, having grown up in New York City, the young Theodore fell in love with the rugged landscape.
Before his return to New York, he bought a primary interest in Chimney Butte Ranch for cattle and a brand. The brand was an eight-pointed Maltese cross.
Maltese Cross Cabin
A one-and-a-half-story cabin was constructed at the request of Roosevelt. Not the typical one-room frontier cabin! It consisted of three rooms (bedroom, kitchen and living room), a root cellar, and a pitched roof loft offering a sleeping area for ranch hands.
The cabin was initially located in a wooded bottomland of the Little Missouri River, seven miles south of Medora. After Roosevelt became the President, the new owners sent it touring the country for several years. It appeared at the St. Louis World’s Fair, the 1905 Lewis and Clark Centennial Exposition and spent some time in Fargo, North Dakota. The Theodore Roosevelt National Park, ND visitor centre grounds, is its final resting place.
Stepping Into The Past
Inside this quaint cabin, now known as the Maltese Cross Cabin, we attempt to envisage what it would have been like to live here.
It wouldn’t be that big of a stretch for us—simple, efficient, cosy and nothing too excessive. We both appreciate the more modest lifestyle.
There is only one item in the cabin that Theodore is known to have owned: a wicker and duck skin trunk used during his travels between New York and Dakota.
The remaining furniture is period antique, although it is quite possible that the President used the rocking chair.
Stepping outside, we start scanning the front exterior of the cabin in search of a cross made by Roosevelt himself with spent bullets. Finally, with the help of the Ranger, we find it tucked on the right-hand side.
Unfortunately, only one of the remaining casings is left. Fortune hunters have gouged out the others while the cabin was on show at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair and the Lewis and Clark Exposition in 1905.
elkhorn unit
On 14th February 1884, five months after his initial trip to the Dakotas, Theodore’s wife Alice and his mother died. Roosevelt left his baby daughter in his sister’s hands and never spoke of his wife again. He was so heartbroken that he decided to seek solitude and returned to the Badlands of North Dakota.
The Home Ranch
On this second visit, he found this location and purchased the rights to the site, naming it Elkhorn after finding the horns of two male elk interlocked at the location. The ranch was completed in early 1885 and contained eight rooms with an extended porch. Other structures were built: two stables within a barn, a cattle shed, a chicken coup and a blacksmith shop.
Spending almost two years here (leaving only for short spells to visit his daughter), Roosevelt became a true cowboy, learning to ride, rope and survive in the wilderness. Often he would take to his horse and ride the 40 or so miles to the Maltese Cross ranch, and when the weather was too hot during the day, he would take the journey at night.
He spent some of his time writing, a pastime which would continue until his death.
Trail to Elkhorn
The road to Elkhorn was rough and dusty, taking us a while to traverse. We wondered what it was like in the 1880s and how long a journey it would have been in a horse-drawn wagon.
Parking Tonto in the parking lot, we continued on foot through the long, tic-infested grass. The heat was extreme, and beads of sweat trickled down our faces. The mosquitoes were out in force, buzzing and biting continuously. Again, we can only imagine how people coped with the annoying insects and the humidity over a century ago.
What’s Left?
After losing 60% of his cattle due to a severe winter in 86/87, Roosevelt abandoned the ranch in 1890. By 1898, the ranch had been sold. The buildings were stripped, and only part of the foundations remained by 1901.
Walking around the area, we can see why the late President chose this location. The scenery is breathtaking, and the tranquillity can certainly heal wounds.
That is nature’s way!
During Theodor Roosevelt’s time in the Dakotas, he became a conservationist, seeing the effects of overgrazing. It became one of his main concerns. Once he became President in 1901, he created the United State Forest Service.
north unit
Continuing our journey to the North Unit (the least visited part of the park), this was our favourite.
We decided to drive the 14-mile scenic drive, which dead-ends at the rim of the Badlands at the Oxbow Overlook, before returning the way we came to see the sites we had pinned.
The scenery along the way is spectacular, and there are many pullouts and trails to hike.
Waiting patiently, they took several minutes to navigate in front and behind our truck.
These animals are enormous and can be extremely dangerous. Each year there are many incidences in which people approaching bison have been seriously injured or haven’t lived to tell the tale.
They may look cute but can kill. Please don’t harass them by hooting your horn, and keep your distance. As the saying goes, “Don’t pet the furry cows!”
Oxbow Overlook
The paved road ends at the Oxbow Overlook. It is an impressive view looking out at the Little Missouri River.
Hiking to Prairie Dog Town
Hopping back into Tonto, we slowly drove back towards the pullout for Prairie Dog Town, which was one of our highlights of the trip.
Although we have seen many of these cute critters from the vehicle, we have never got close to them.
The hike to the “town” is under a mile, and the terrain is pretty flat, passing some unique rock formations.
Tall grasses rustled as we walked the well-trodden trail, and many early summer flowers beckoned the bees with their bright-coloured petals and sweet aromas.
Too Close For Comfort
Bison grazed several hundred feet from the path. Then suddenly, one appeared from behind some rocks just in front of us. We froze! He stood there glaring at us, blocking our way.
We quietly retreated, giving him plenty of distance.
These majestic creatures can move fast and do severe damage if you get too close, resulting in serious injury and even death.
It was a stand-off. We waited at least 20 minutes before he moved away from the trail, allowing us to pass safely while keeping a wary eye on us. We made our move with our hearts beating out of our chests. Our only thought was, “we have to return this way”.
Dog Town
These small furry animals live in colonies and extensive underground burrows where the land is flat and treeless. They are very noisy, and you can hear them chirping or barking from quite a distance.
Prairie dogs are wild and shouldn’t be approached or petted as they bite. Also, any type of human food can be toxic, causing them to become very ill, so please Don’t Feed them, just enjoy them.
We spent about fifteen minutes watching the Prairie dogs play. Several had young and, although curious of us, kept their babies near their burrows.
Walking back the way we came, we looked for the bison. Fortunately, the small herd we had seen had moved away from the trail, so our journey back to Tonto only took about 15-20 minutes.
And onto our final destination, which was a few miles along the road.
Cannonball Concretions
It seemed like we were entering another world. Huge round stones jutted out from the walls of the cliffs and the ground. It almost appeared like the earth was giving birth.
Reminiscent of dinosaur eggs, we walked around these strange objects. Some were perfect spheres, and our imaginations went into overdrive.
Cannonball Concretions were formed within sediment layers over millions of years by mineral-rich water seeping through more porous layers that are now being exposed by erosion.
A trail leading us to the right side of the rock outcrop, where the cliffs have been worn away, leaving dry waterfalls.
our takeaway on roosevelt national park
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is underestimated and is a great way to spend a few days. We found lots to do and see. There are plenty of pullouts, scenic views, and dozens of hikes for all fitness levels.
We are pleasantly surprised and thoroughly recommend a visit.
roosevelt national park in a nutshell
- A park entry fee is $30 per private vehicle (valid for 7 days)
- America the Beautiful pass accepted
- Keep to the speed limits
- Watch for wildlife on the roads
- DO NOT approach the buffalo
- DO NOT feed the prairie dogs
- Stay on the trails
- Pack it in, pack it out and leave no trace
- Check weather conditions before your visit
- Wear suitable clothing and footwear
- Hat, sunscreen, and mosquito repellent in the summer months
- Water is essential for hiking – even for the shortest distances
- National Parks prohibit the flying of drones
national park site map
You two travel to the neatest places. I enjoy your posts.