Today we are on a treasure hunt of sorts. We knew the general location and a landmark to look out for upon arrival. When that came into view, we found the nearest pullout, prepared the backpack and set off in search of Samuelson’s Rocks and an unknown homestead.
The “said location” is not on any park map, and no signs are pointing you in their direction. Most people don’t know they exist, even though a new trail follows the base of the mountains and passes right by them. We feel that this is a good thing because it keeps them preserved.
WHAT ARE SAMUELSON’S ROCKS?
In the late 1920s, Mr John Samuelson neatly carved sayings and political rants onto rocks after making a clean flat surface. They are located on a small hill near the base of the mountains in Joshua Tree National Park.
There are varying reports on exactly how many verses there are. Some say there are over ten engravings, others, only six. Some are easy to spot while others are well hidden, making it difficult to pinpoint the exact number.
GETTING THERE
As previously mentioned, there is now a trail; however, we have taken the stance not to give out proper directions to this spot or the homestead.
These locations need preserving, and with the increasing amount of vandalism and theft, for reasons we will never comprehend, we feel, that if you truly want to view these structures, then you need to do your own research.
We will, however, give some clues.
It was reasonably easy to get to both these locations without a trail to follow as you can see by our photos.
THE FIRST GEM
We walked a distance apart from one another to ensure we wouldn’t walk right past the first artefacts we were hoping to find.
Small fragments became visible in the sands, and we knew we were on the right track. Grins formed and our cameras sprung to life.
The natural desert sun patina covers an old automobile that is now slowly vanishing in the sand.
Just over its shoulder is all that’s left of a homestead.
A dry withered wooden floor has nearly collapsed into the small cellar. Fragments of rock foundations give hints of where the front door may have been.
what lies beneath? – homestead ruins slide show
Just beyond that footprint is another small rocky foundation of an oven or fireplace.
This home is a mystery as far as we have found. It was not Samuelson’s homestead as some have stated.
His was further along, closer to our next destination and a much simpler residence. However, it burned to the ground in the 1930s, and there are no remnants left.
WHO WAS THIS SAMUELSON CHARACTER?
Samuelson was originally from Sweden and had lived an extremely colourful life before his arrival in Joshua Tree. He spoke of being a seaman, a shipwreck, a desert island and a princess.
Diagnosed by a Boston physician with sleeping sickness, which would send him to the land of nod for several days at a time when it rained, the doctor suggested that a warmer, dryer climate would help. So guess where Samuelson ended up? Yep, that’s right. Seattle! Well, later on, that is. First, he came to Joshua Tree in the early 1920s.
Bill Keys hired him in 1926 to work at the Hidden Gold Mine located near the overlook at Keys View. The job only lasted for around one year because Samuelson decided he wanted to go it alone and try prospecting himself.
In his spare time, he started carving the sayings on the rocks. Firstly they were somewhat more philosophical. Gradually they became more political.
Some of the sayings are misspelt due to the language barrier and his limited education.
WE HAVE ARRIVED at Samuelson’s Rocks
We spot a small hill next to the foothills and begin to scan all the rocks as we approach. Walking the perimeter, we started to see them.
It is a time capsule. Samuelson put thoughts that held a deep meaning for him, on display.
A bench placed just in front of the “Rock of Faith” allows one to sit and contemplate.
As you sit there listening to the wind swirl around the rocks, you get a sense of what it may have been like for Samuelson.
I see why he liked this spot.
JUST BEYOND THE ROCK HILL
Hidden well behind the hill is an almost perfectly preserved corral. Over time, only a few posts and barbed wire have come down. Everything else looks as if it was used only moments before our arrival.
what we found – slide show
Just beyond the rock pile, once stood Samuelson’s homestead which he shared with his wife, Margaret. A small cabin with a canvas roof.
This location is beautiful, and you can see why Samuelson chose it. Unfortunately, he was unable to hold a land title legally. The Headington family bought his cabin and occupied the surrounding area.
Maybe the remains of the old homestead was theirs!
SO, WHAT HAPPENED TO JOHN SAMUELSON?
Samuelson moved to LA in 1928 and ended up on the run from the law in 1929 for killing two men. Eventually getting caught, he was admitted into an insane asylum – California’s State Hospital in Mendocino.
Within a year, he managed to escape and ended up in Washington working for a logging camp.
In the 1950s, John Samuelson died from injuries he sustained from an accident at the logging company.
WHAT DO WE THINK?
We did not see another person the entire time and were able to find two things not everyone knows exists inside the park.
Samuelson’s Rocks is one of those places that you hope stays intact for eternity. It is a monument to someone who lived a tough life in obscurity, yet left something so beautiful and insightful that it should outlast us all.
I like to think of Samuelson standing at arm’s length, pleased that his little treasure hunt does attract those few who value what he has done here.
It was the perfect way to end our weekend excursion in Joshua Tree. We found what we were looking for, and it adds to our character because we have picked up a little of Samuelson’s.
Oh, we found seven of the writings.
seven sayings found – slide show
Samuelson’s Rocks in a nutshell
- 1.5 miles each way from where we parked the car
- Flat terrain
- No cell service
- Do your research before you go
- Watch for snakes and other bities
- Wear appropriate clothing and footwear
- Take plenty of water with you. Even though the road is in sight at all times, it is still easy to get dehydrated in the desert
- As always: Pack it in – pack it out. Preserve this site for others to enjoy
- Happy exploring
For more information about Samuelson, check out the book “Neighbor Frontiers” by Earle Stanley Gardner. (He was the man behind the Perry Mason character and also helped with exonerating Bill Keys) After meeting Samuelson, Gardner paid him the sum of $20 for the rights to his story.
(If you’d like to read an excerpt from the book, look at Plounge’s Place)
Our sincere “Thanks” to Elliot, who with his help made this and other of our Joshua Tree blogs possible.
- For other great hikes in Joshua Tree, click the link below.
To be correct, the homestead you picture in your article is not Samuelson’s. That particular homestead was used and built by earlier prospectors and for a brief while another miner of note.
Thank you for the comment Bobby. We do exhaustive research to obtain the correct information, sometimes it can be hard to find which sites have it right. Where were you able to find that out, we would be interested in learning more.