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Samuelson’s Rocks

America· Mysterious Places

17 Feb

Today we are on a treasure hunt of sorts. We knew the general location and a landmark to look out for upon arrival. When that came into view, we found the nearest pullout, prepared the backpack and set off in search of Samuelson’s Rocks and an unknown homestead.

Desert landscape with some brush. Sandy terrain with mountains in the horizon at Samuelson's Rocks
We’re heading for those mountains

The “said location” is not on any park map, and no signs are pointing you in their direction. Most people don’t know they exist, even though a new trail follows the base of the mountains and passes right by them. We feel that this is a good thing because it keeps them preserved.

WHAT ARE SAMUELSON’S ROCKS?

In the late 1920s, Mr John Samuelson neatly carved sayings and political rants onto rocks after making a clean flat surface. They are located on a small hill near the base of the mountains in Joshua Tree National Park.

There are varying reports on exactly how many verses there are. Some say there are over ten engravings, others, only six. Some are easy to spot while others are well hidden, making it difficult to pinpoint the exact number.

Creosote bush in foreground mountains in horizon in arid desert

GETTING THERE

As previously mentioned, there is now a trail; however, we have taken the stance not to give out proper directions to this spot or the homestead.

These locations need preserving, and with the increasing amount of vandalism and theft, for reasons we will never comprehend, we feel, that if you truly want to view these structures, then you need to do your own research.

Lady in baseball cap walking in the arid desert towards the mountains in the horizon near Samuelson's Rocks

We will, however, give some clues.

It was reasonably easy to get to both these locations without a trail to follow as you can see by our photos.

Desert wash or flash flood area in arid desert. There are some shrubs scattered around and mountains in the background

THE FIRST GEM

We walked a distance apart from one another to ensure we wouldn’t walk right past the first artefacts we were hoping to find.

Small fragments became visible in the sands, and we knew we were on the right track. Grins formed and our cameras sprung to life.

Mountain range in background, Joshua trees and desert shrubs scattered in the desert. In the distance there is the remains of an old car near Samuelson's Rocks

The natural desert sun patina covers an old automobile that is now slowly vanishing in the sand.

Abandoned 1930s car rusting in the desert amongst Joshua trees and other brush with mountains in the background near Samuelson's Rocks

Just over its shoulder is all that’s left of a homestead.

A dry withered wooden floor has nearly collapsed into the small cellar. Fragments of rock foundations give hints of where the front door may have been.

what lies beneath? – homestead ruins slide show
  • Remains of a homestead in the desert. Brick foundations desert shrubs and mountain range in background
  • Brick ruins of homestead in arid desert near Samuelson's Rocks
  • Collapsed wooden roof of homestead on the desert ground. Other remains of homestead scattered nearby
  • Brick walls of a cellar with sandy floor and collapsed wooden roof of homestead
  • Different angle of cellar with wooden roof and stone walls
  • Stone steps leading up from the dilapidated cellar into the open desert near Samuelson's Rocks

Just beyond that footprint is another small rocky foundation of an oven or fireplace.

This home is a mystery as far as we have found. It was not Samuelson’s homestead as some have stated.

His was further along, closer to our next destination and a much simpler residence. However, it burned to the ground in the 1930s, and there are no remnants left.

rusted tin cans and other metal objects scatter the desert floor near Samuelson's Rocks

WHO WAS THIS SAMUELSON CHARACTER?

Samuelson was originally from Sweden and had lived an extremely colourful life before his arrival in Joshua Tree. He spoke of being a seaman, a shipwreck, a desert island and a princess.

Diagnosed by a Boston physician with sleeping sickness, which would send him to the land of nod for several days at a time when it rained, the doctor suggested that a warmer, dryer climate would help. So guess where Samuelson ended up? Yep, that’s right. Seattle! Well, later on, that is. First, he came to Joshua Tree in the early 1920s.

Mountain range with many Joshua Trees growing in the desert
Getting closer

Bill Keys hired him in 1926 to work at the Hidden Gold Mine located near the overlook at Keys View. The job only lasted for around one year because Samuelson decided he wanted to go it alone and try prospecting himself.

In his spare time, he started carving the sayings on the rocks. Firstly they were somewhat more philosophical. Gradually they became more political.

Some of the sayings are misspelt due to the language barrier and his limited education.

WE HAVE ARRIVED at Samuelson’s Rocks

We spot a small hill next to the foothills and begin to scan all the rocks as we approach. Walking the perimeter, we started to see them.

Large mound of rocks and boulders with desert fauna and mountain range behind

It is a time capsule. Samuelson put thoughts that held a deep meaning for him, on display.

A bench placed just in front of the “Rock of Faith” allows one to sit and contemplate.

Man in cowboy hat, and lady in baseball cap sitting on a wooden plank bench with their backs to the camera. They are facing a huge rock with a flat surface which has been engraved
Time to sit, relax and contemplate

As you sit there listening to the wind swirl around the rocks, you get a sense of what it may have been like for Samuelson.

I see why he liked this spot.

Lady in baseball cap climbing amongst the boulders of the rock hill
There’s some rock scrambling involved

JUST BEYOND THE ROCK HILL

Hidden well behind the hill is an almost perfectly preserved corral. Over time, only a few posts and barbed wire have come down. Everything else looks as if it was used only moments before our arrival.

Remains of a large corral with wooden posts and barbed wire. Joshua Tree in foreground and mountain range in the background
what we found – slide show
  • Metal water tank on its side resting on the desert ground
  • rusted metal artefacts laying on the ground in the desert near the corral
  • Rusted metal object c1940. appears to be a part of a cars engine near Samuelson's Rocks
  • Metal and pottery artefacts scattered on the desert ground
  • rusted metal pole left to rot in the arid desert
  • Rusted old bed frame left to rot on the large pile of rocks known as Samuelson's Rocks

Just beyond the rock pile, once stood Samuelson’s homestead which he shared with his wife, Margaret. A small cabin with a canvas roof.

Black and white photo c1928 of metal cabin in the desert
photo courtesy of plounge place

This location is beautiful, and you can see why Samuelson chose it. Unfortunately, he was unable to hold a land title legally. The Headington family bought his cabin and occupied the surrounding area.

Maybe the remains of the old homestead was theirs!

SO, WHAT HAPPENED TO JOHN SAMUELSON?

Samuelson moved to LA in 1928 and ended up on the run from the law in 1929 for killing two men. Eventually getting caught, he was admitted into an insane asylum – California’s State Hospital in Mendocino. 

Within a year, he managed to escape and ended up in Washington working for a logging camp. 

In the 1950s, John Samuelson died from injuries he sustained from an accident at the logging company.

WHAT DO WE THINK?

We did not see another person the entire time and were able to find two things not everyone knows exists inside the park. 

Samuelson’s Rocks is one of those places that you hope stays intact for eternity. It is a monument to someone who lived a tough life in obscurity, yet left something so beautiful and insightful that it should outlast us all. 

Man in short sleeve t-shirt, long trousers and cowboy hat walking away from the camera across the desert. There are some shrubs and scattered fauna
Steve hiking back from Samuelson’s Rocks

I like to think of Samuelson standing at arm’s length, pleased that his little treasure hunt does attract those few who value what he has done here. 

It was the perfect way to end our weekend excursion in Joshua Tree. We found what we were looking for, and it adds to our character because we have picked up a little of Samuelson’s.

Oh, we found seven of the writings.

seven sayings found – slide show
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks
  • Engraved rock face at Samuelson's Rocks

Samuelson’s Rocks in a nutshell

  • 1.5 miles each way from where we parked the car
  • Flat terrain
  • No cell service
  • Do your research before you go
  • Watch for snakes and other bities
  • Wear appropriate clothing and footwear
  • Take plenty of water with you. Even though the road is in sight at all times, it is still easy to get dehydrated in the desert
  • As always: Pack it in – pack it out. Preserve this site for others to enjoy
  • Happy exploring

For more information about Samuelson, check out the book “Neighbor Frontiers” by Earle Stanley Gardner. (He was the man behind the Perry Mason character and also helped with exonerating Bill Keys) After meeting Samuelson, Gardner paid him the sum of $20 for the rights to his story.

(If you’d like to read an excerpt from the book, look at Plounge’s Place)

Our sincere “Thanks” to Elliot, who with his help made this and other of our Joshua Tree blogs possible.

  • For other great hikes in Joshua Tree, click the link below.
8 SHORT HIKES IN JOSHUA TREE

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  1. Bobby Howell says

    6th January 2021 at 8:53 am

    To be correct, the homestead you picture in your article is not Samuelson’s. That particular homestead was used and built by earlier prospectors and for a brief while another miner of note.

    Reply
    • Andrea and Steven says

      8th January 2021 at 6:10 pm

      Thank you for the comment Bobby. We do exhaustive research to obtain the correct information, sometimes it can be hard to find which sites have it right. Where were you able to find that out, we would be interested in learning more.

      Reply

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