At the beginning of the 19th century, this area was nothing more than a small trading post, later becoming known as Canyon Lodge and then Two Guns. After several disasters, the curse of Two Guns became legendary, filled with mystery and ghosts.
our visits
The first time we visited was in 2015 on our through-trip of Route 66 from Santa Monica to Chicago. Pulling off the freeway, the building that greets you is a dilapidated Service Station. The metal frame construction has kept it in excellent shape in the harsh desert sun.
It is one of the newer buildings of Two Guns, being born in the ’70s. It’s a shame about the graffiti and tagging. In our opinion, it takes away from some of the allure.
Other buildings dot the barren landscape nearby, and further along, are two water towers which have murals on them. These too have been covered with far more graffiti than last time we were here.
It is thought that the original images are of Harry’ Two Guns’ Miller and Earl Cundiff, the man from which he leased the land.
rip KAMP building
The next structure stands at the entrance to the KOA campground and is another building from the ’70s. Nearly four years on from our last visit, and it is evident that it most likely won’t be standing for much longer because of time and human hands. Even the old swimming pool has had a new paint job!!
UPDATE: As of early 2020 the KAMP structure is no more. Due to arson and vandalism, it is now a pile of rubble.
Backtracking along the dirt road and taking a left, you follow the canyon to the ghost town.
Being a narrow spot for crossing the Canyon Diablo, the once small hamlet became a busy area. By the late 1920s, it was a favourite stop for those travelling on the National Trail Highway which later became part of Route 66.
enter one harry e. miller
Harry E. Miller, A.K.A. Chief Crazy Thunder, was an eccentric man. In 1925 he took out a 10-year lease of the land from Mr and Mrs Cundiff. Then he renamed the town Two Guns after the silent movie actor William S. ‘Two Guns’ Hart, claiming he had worked with the man. Or so one story goes.
Most people believed that Harry, a hermit, had been living in the caves before leasing the land.
Harry decided to build a zoo, a restaurant, an Indian gift shop and two gas stations — turning the space from an open area into a tourist trap.
He had cages for Mountain Lions and kept bobcats, panthers and reptiles in enclosures built of brick, mortar and chicken wire.
the downfall
Mr Miller even started selling the skulls of murdered Apaches he found while exploring the cave system on the property. He started tours of “The Apache Death Caves” where 42 Apache had been massacred. He went to great lengths, even getting the Hopi to build fake ruins near the cave entrance. [The caves are great for exploring, although I’d advise you take a flashlight or torch if you venture into them. Watch your step and your head, and keep a lookout for scorpions, snakes and other bitey things.]
This little endeavour was very successful until 1926. After a dispute with Mr Cundiff, Miller shot him dead, yet was acquitted of murder. Returning to the town, he soon got his comeuppance. At the hand, or claws rather, of one of his mountain lions, then a lynx, and finally a Gila monster bit him. In 1929, a fire destroyed the trading post. After all this, he eventually left the state, and the “curse” of Two Guns was born.
post harry e. miller and the curse of two guns
Mrs Cundiff remarried and went on a building spree, adding and moving structures, including the zoo, to the opposite side of the canyon after the re-routing of The Mother Road, hoping to keep the town alive.
Even with Miller out of the picture and the buildings relocated, Two Guns, or the land itself seemed to have a curse. It eventually sold in the 1950s.
still cursed?
For the next decade, the land and buildings were leased and abandoned several times, until Mr Dreher came along and brought new life into the town. A new service station, motel, restaurant and gift shop popped up, and even the zoo received a makeover. For many years things seemed to be going well. The I-40 was near completion; the town had its own exit off the freeway, but then…….
The curse seemed to strike again, and in 1971 a massive fire totally destroyed the town, and Two Guns became the abandoned ghost town we see today.
There is a lot of information on the internet about Two Guns, and Harry’ Indian” Miller. Most of the stories seem to contradict one another, because of this, it’s so difficult to decipher between fact and fiction. Maybe you can imagine your anecdotes about the aloof hermit Harry and the curse of Two Guns!
our takeaway on the ghost town of two guns
Driving past on interstate 40, you only see the newer gas station, and before it fell, the Kamp building. On closer inspection, though there is so much to see in this section of Canyon Diablo.
We have explored Two Guns several times, and each time we see something new. Apart from the KOA Kamp, there is virtually no graffiti amongst the ruins, which is amazing and great.
The ruins are fantastic to explore, especially when you know the history and background of the area. Imagining what it was like to live here, or having a guided tour of the Death Cave by Harry himself.
The curse of two guns – In A Nutshell
- Free Admission and ample parking
- Watch for snakes, scorpions and other bities (we didn’t see any)
- Take only photos, leave only footprints
- Wear suitable footwear. the ground is uneven
- Be sensible and stay safe
- Happy Exploring
Location Map
- If you’ve enjoyed reading about The Curse of Two Guns, then you will enjoy the blog about the Apache Death Cave.
- To return to Route 66, click the button below.
Xochitl Martinez says
Sounds very adventurous. Plan on visiting the site very soon. Thank you for the information about the site. We are very exited about venturing.